Stereo-jack with Mono Configuration

These jacks are used on many toy adaptations to enable them to work with switches.  We use a mono-jack configuration on stereo jacks so that we can make every switch (mono or stereo) work.  This is done by shorting the the female end stereo jack ring and sleeve connectors.  This post shows two female jack styles we have used on toy adaptations.

  • Option 1:  3.5mm (1/8) Panel Mount Stereo Jack (adapted to mono-configuration) 51l3gr3YMNL._SL1001_
  • Option 2:  3.5mm (1/8) “Free Hanging” Stereo Jack (adapted to mono-configuration)

The physical structure of the device being adapted determines which works best.

NOTE: This guide will be updated w/better photos after the Nov 19 event.  Please watch the video above for a better view 🙂

Option 1 Required Items

3.5MM 1/8 Inch Gold Plated Stereo Jack Panel Mount Solder Connector (Amazon: click here)

  • Adaptive Jack
  • Solid core coated wire (braided will work but is harder)
  • Shrink wrap tubing
  • Lighter
  • Soldering Iron
  • Helping hands

Option 1 Steps

OPTION 1:  3.5mm (1/8) Panel Mount Stereo Jack (adapted to mono-jack configuration)

  1. Jack Assembly:  Cut two 10 inch pieces of wire.  You now  have 2 wires to connect to the jack but 3 points.    To do this short the ring and sleeve on stereo jack.  To figure out which components on the jack are tip, ring, and sleeve you can use a tone tester.  That said, in the type we are using, if you hold the jack so the long connection rod is down and facing you the two that are to be shorted together with one wire are at 3:00 and 6:00.
  2. Strip the tips of your wires (both ends) by about 1/2inch or 1.25cm or 13mm.
  3. Now connect the two wires to the 3 soldering points on the jack.
  4. Soldering the ring and sleeve
    1. Always confirm you can get the shrink wrap on BEFORE you solder.
    2. Slip one of the wires through the hole on the long terminal and then through the terminal at the 3:00 position when holding the jack so the long terminal is facing you and at the bottom.

IMG_2008

Note:  If you can’t get the wire through the holes, then add solder to both stems and add solder to the end of the wire.  Then touch the wire and the stem you want to solder and heat with the soldering iron for a second (or so) and then remove the soldering iron while holding the wire in place so the solder cools and holds them together.

  1. Tip the soldering iron with solder
  2. Heat the wire up
  3. Drive the solder into the wire
    • IMG_2009IMG_2012
  4. Cut off any extra solder or wire
  5. Slide the shrink wrap over the solder point & heat with a lighter
    • IMG_2014
      1. Soldering the tip (For this step, ALWAYS confirm you can get the shrink wrap on BEFORE you solder!!!–may want to cut the shrink wrap in 1/2 so its not too long–use judgement)
        1. Slip the other wire through the hole that is on the stem sitting at the 9:00 position when the long stem is at the bottom and facing you.
          • IMG_2016
        2. Tip the soldering iron with solder
        3. Heat the wire up
        4. Drive the solder into the wire
        5. Cut off any extra solder or wire
          • IMG_2017
        6. Slide the shrink wrap over the solder point and heat with a lighter
          • IMG_2019
    1. Finale should look like this
      • final

 

Option 2 Required Items

3.5mm (1/8) “Free Hanging” Stereo Jack

  • Single core coated wire (braided will work but is harder)
  • Shrink wrap tubing
  • Lighter
  • Soldering Iron
  • Helping hands (optional but recommended)

Option 2 Steps

  • OPTION 2:  3.5mm (1/8) “Free Hanging” Stereo Jack (adapted to mono-configuration)
  1. Jack Assembly:  Cut two 10 inch pieces of wire.  You now  have 2 wires to connect to the jack but 3 points.  We do so this so we can connect them in a mono-jack configuration on a stero-jack capable port.  We use a mono-jack configuration so that we can make every switch (mono or stereo) work.  To make this configuration work we short the ring and sleeve on stereo jack.  To figure out which components on the jack are tip, ring, and sleeve you can use a tone tester.  That said, in the type we are using, if you hold the port so the long connection rod is down and facing you the two that are to be shorted together with one wire are at 3:00 and 6:00.
  2. Strip the tips of your wires (both ends) by about 1/2inch or 1.25cm or 13mm.
  3. Take apart the mono jack by unscrewing it and removing the case, spring, and plastic cover.
  4. Connect the two wires to the 3 soldering points on the jack as described above.
  5. Soldering the ring and sleeve (For this step, ALWAYS confirm you can get the shrink wrap on BEFORE you solder!!!–may want to cut the shrink wrap in 1/2 so its not too long–use judgement)
    1. Loop one of the wires through the hole on the long stem and then through the at the 3:00 position when holding the jack so the long stem is facing you and at the bottom (you may need a little extra wire stripped).  Then add solder to both stems where the stem and wire touch. (See the note in Option 1 if you are using braided wire).
    2. Tip the soldering iron with solder
    3. Heat the wire up
    4. Drive the solder into the wire
    5. Cut off any extra solder or wire
    6. Slide the shrink wrap over the solder point
    7. Heat with lighter
  6. Soldering the tip (For this step, ALWAYS confirm you can get the shrink wrap on BEFORE you solder!!!–may want to cut the shrink wrap in 1/2 so its not too long–use judgement)
    1. Slip the other wire through the hole that is on the stem sitting at the 9:00 position when the long stem is at the bottom and facing you.
    2. Tip the soldering iron with solder
    3. Heat the wire up
    4. Drive the solder into the wire
    5. Cut off any extra solder or wire
    6. Slide the shrink wrap over the solder point
    7. Heat the shrink wrap with lighter